Ortolana
33 Tyler St, Britomart
Opening hours 7am – late

Dominating the Auckland dining scene, it seems that the Hip Group can do no wrong. Directors Jackie Grant and Scott Brown along with executive chef Jo Pearson are now responsible for eight of the best eateries in town: Richmond Road, St Heliers, Takapuna Beach and Rosie Cafes, The Store at Britomart, Ortolana, dedicated dessert and patisserie haven Milse, as well as the Waihi Beach Hotel and Waimauku’s Provenance Eatery. It is an impressive list. Six made Metro magazine’s best cafes in Auckland 2014, with Rosie taking out the spot of supreme winner.

The secret? Without talking to those running the show, common threads are simple yet sophisticated dishes with seasonal and locally sourced ingredients, flavour combinations diverging from the staples that grace most other brunch menus, gorgeously designed and spacious fit-outs, friendly service, some of the most reliable coffee in the city, sparkling water on the house and prices not prohibitive to a meal out.

Having not been there since its early days just over two years ago, lunch at Ortolana yesterday did not disappoint. With just as much outdoor seating as indoor, a peaked canopy adorned with fairy lights shelters diners while hanging vines and native greenery act as a barrier from passing Britomart shoppers. Inside, a glass-blown light fitting dominates the space, all high ceiling and brick walls softened by the linen cushioned benches and natural curved wooden furniture. The place was packed, but another table got pulled over from round the corner, the overhead heaters shifted and wool blankets given out to keep us toasty – all in the space of a couple of minutes.

Ordering was tricky, both because so many good options made it difficult to decide, and as dishes are listed simply by their main component and with frequent unusual ingredients (you may find yourself looking the odd one up on your phone to figure out exactly what you are getting). However, this does reflect the style of eating here – and we are not complaining.

From the brunch section came the gnocchi, butternut, almond, mozzarella and egg. Warming and wintery, crusty gnocchi pairs perfectly with roast butternut chunks, the oozy yolk of a soft poached egg and a bare coating of finely grated cheese.

Fazzoletti, a large sheet of fresh al dente pasta, dips and folds around tender, earthy heirloom beetroot and dollops of smooth cows feta, not sharp enough to overwhelm the other components. Roughly chopped roast hazelnuts lend texture, while microgreens and thin pink watermelon radish slices pretty up the dish. Wintery yet simultaneously fresh and vibrant, this is a knock-out.

The market fish of the day was tarakihi, pan-seared to preserve the delicate flavour and plated with a red cabbage and quinoa salad and swirls of a light kale pesto. The kale pesto, left mild with olive oil, married perfectly with the fresh, crispy-skinned fish without being overpowering: these were the highlights here, with the quinoa salad simply serving to bulk it up.

Rigatoni with mushroom ragu was Dad’s choice, where pasta is balanced by a generous serve of intensely flavoured mushrooms, not diluted by a creamy sauce. Small crouton-like pieces add crunch, while the omnipresent microgreens and a sprinkle of parmesan rounds out the dish.

There was no debating whether we needed dessert as we eagerly headed across to Milse to check out their cabinets. Bursting with tarts, macarons, and much coveted gelato sticks (options include salted caramel & macadamia, yoghurt & lemon curd, and feijoa, almond & Earl Grey white chocolate), the french inspired patisserie also has a devoted degustation dessert menu for those so inclined. Of the three chocolate desserts we tried, the one that really shone was the 65% Satilia Chocolate, passionfruit, vanilla & hazelnut, where an intensely dark outer mousse layer is paired with a gooey passionfruit centre and crunchy vanilla nut base. Dad went for a verrine – a small jar of 62% chocolate mousse, crunchy pecan-brownie crumble and a dominating hit of cardamon.

Ortolana is an excellent showcase of the best of Auckland dining – atmosphere, service, and food combine for an always satisfying experience. It is where I would recommend out-of-towners to visit, and where locals should visit too. Just pop by Milse on your way out. Trust me.

Rating: 9/10
Don’t miss: market fish, dessert at Milse
Pro tip: go early to avoid waiting for a table and bring a coat in case you sit outside
Features: fresh, light food, outdoor seating, no bookings

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