Gelato Messina Appreciation Class, Melbourne
http://www.gelatomessina.com/au/
Gelato Messina. I don’t even know where to start.
My first trip was on a weekend visit to Sydney, age 16. Mum and I wandered past a store on the way back from dinner, so packed with people that there was a line out the door, but walking straight past was out of the question. Roasted pear and rhubarb gelato was my pick that time (it still remains one of my favourites), and I have been hooked every since.
You have to understand, you see, that Messina is no ordinary gelato vendor – just as Willy Wonka’s is no ordinary chocolate factory. Each shop (and there are now 11, with 10 in Australia and one recently open in Las Vegas), is a hive of activity, full of people on gelato missions: some in for dessert and trying their favourite flavours in an attempt to choose one to order, a few have seen a special flavour on Instagram and zero in on their pick, others pick up a tub on their way home from work to consume during movie night, a lucky few pick up fairy mushroom gelato cakes for a party and more people sit around savouring their gelato on cushioned benches or stand in the night air. Out the back is yet more action – piles of soft gelato pour out of machines, painstakingly layered with different flavourings, more cakes are made, specials are planned – recent concoctions include Cherry Pickin’ (swirls of cherry sorbet & coconut gelato smashed with chilli, cherry, coconut & chocolate chunks), Argentasian (dulce de leche gelato with pear & ginger coconut biscuit) and Uber Bueno (hazelnut gelato with white chocolate hazelnut fudge, milk chocolate chips & cream filled wafers) – the latter we were lucky enough to try it during the class (see photos below!)
When the email came round that Gelato Appreciation classes were starting in Melbourne, having formerly been offered only in Sydney, I wasted no time in booking a spot. Just one class per month was available for the remainder of the year, each of which only offered 20 places for eager gelato lovers. It is no surprise that they were all booked out within an hour.
If you want to know the secret to Gelato Messina’s success, the one thing that became abundantly clear during the class was the quality of ingredients and pain-staking time that is spent on the gelato. Rather than using the same gelato base for every gelato and adding flavours, both an easier and cheaper option, Messina makes a different gelato base, from scratch, for almost every flavour – resulting in a base that optimally showcases the individual flavour and a structurally different texture, or “mouth-feel” for each gelato. Each ingredient is sourced specifically: Heilala pure vanilla extract and Manuka honey from New Zealand for their premium quality, the Chocolate-Mint flavour infused with mint leaves rather than just flavoured with mint essence, espresso straight out of a top-of-the-line in-house espresso machine for the Tiramisu, genuine Sicilian pistachios for the Pistachio gelato (less than 10 gelaterias in the world use these due to their price)… you get the picture. They are even looking at growing their own hazelnuts in Australia as the sought after nut (largely for Nutella!) are getting too difficult to import from Italy. On top of this, each batch is made fresh and only sold for 1-2 days, after which the texture begins to diminish. Most of the gelato-making staff have backgrounds as a pastry chefs: both because of the scientific nature of the recipes (immediately obvious from their recipe book) and because the components of the special flavours are also made in house. Cheesecake chunks? Made from scratch. The apple pie in the Apple Pie flavour? The shortcrust pastry and apple compote are both made there. Baklava? They have their own recipe. Doughnut pieces? All constructed, proved and fried right alongside all of the gelato machines. You can’t say it isn’t authentic.
But the class. This was a level above. During the morning, we were instructed on the art of gelato (which I will be definitely be attempting when I am next home) alongside a four course degustation menu created specifically for us. First off was the Macaroon: a chewy macaroon base was covered with a circular pattern of rich coconut gelato and a disc of tempered dark chocolate, adorned with salted caramel and roasted coconut. The ultimate ice-cream sandwich, it reminded me of a grown-up bounty bar.
Next was the vibrant yellow choc-tops, where a mini-cone was filled with thick, sweet peanut ganache, banana-whipped cream gelato and coated in a yellow chocolate dip. Although initially a little uncertain about the banana gelato, it ended up being one of our favourites, the contrasting textures of crunchy wafer cone, silky banana gelato and nutty ganache adding to the experience.
Having eagerly gotten up to peer through the glass at the emerging choc-tops, I was quickly motioned around the back to get more close and personal with the gelato. Hair net on, my job was to sweep the tiramisu gelato, rich with mascarpone, espresso and sweet marsala wine, out of the machine as one of the chefs layered in the coffee soaked savoiardi biscuits. I was in heaven.
LMT was the most artful: short crust pastry was crumbled in piles amongst piped rounds of lemon chantilly cream, shards of crisp Italian meringue and icy mint granita. Like a deconstructed mint lemon meringue pie, this was the course least heavy on gelato. Poppin’ Drank was next – constructed from caramel syrup, popcorn air, dulce de leche gelato and popcorn, I had expected it to be the grand finale. Unfortunately, it ended up being the most disappointing, with the caramel syrup thick and sticky, a spoon of gelato half-melted over the top, and a few pieces of plain popcorn dropped into the jar, too big to properly coat with any caramel. It was a one-time, specialty menu though, so I suppose it couldn’t all be perfect!
The real grand finale came with the construction of gelato cakes. These normally take 2-3 days to construct, allowing for freezing time between each step, and are the least profitable aspect of Messina. Kate was taken round the back to have a go at the final touches of the Dr Evil’s Magic Mushroom: the inner filling of dark chocolate gelato, peanut cookies and dulce de leche was coated in a thin chocolate sponge, and she was given the go ahead to pour the silky red ganache over the mushroom top, add the white chocolate buttons and finally transfer the mushroom onto its base of more chocolate gelato and “grass” made from popping candy, white chocolate and crushed biscuit. Now getting extremely full, I made room for my slice of mushroom cake – and honestly, it was my favourite course. Rich, deep dark chocolate gelato with a centre of gooey caramel and crunches of biscuit and popping candy – it doesn’t get much better.
Moving onto the tasting session, I made it my mission to try every single flavour. I made it to 45 of 50, but called it on the ones I knew I wouldn’t like (I’m looking at you, Choc-Mint & Lemon sorbet), feeling quite proud of the amount of gelato I had managed to cram into my stomach over the morning. The sugar-coma did inevitably follow, but I remain convinced it was worth it. We waddled out the door toting our new Gelato Messina cookbooks and tub of gelato as mementos of the class – one a whole lot more transient than the other but equally enjoyed.
So – would I recommend the class? HECK YES, I WOULD. Anyone with a love of gelato even half as great as mine would have an amazing time. It gives you a far greater awareness of the scientific basis of the gelato bases, the difficult and cost of constructing and, of course, of the fifty flavours available at Messina (if you have room to try them all, that is!), along with a whole morning of fun. I really don’t think the smile fell off my face once. My next mission is to get to the Dessert Bar in Sydney which offer limited edition soft serves (currently collaborating with Andy Bowdy – google his cakes, now) and other insane creations. So, so good.
Hannah | The Swirling Spoon says
ooooookay. really need to get my ass down to gelato messina! I am so ridiculously impressed now. I mean, I knew they were awesome, blah, blah, but I see what the fuss is about now! I wonder if all the gelato messina stores do it all from scratch? there is one on the Gold Coast now which would be my closest one but I don’t know if I should save myself for Melbourne…
Claudia Brick says
I’m pretty sure they all do – they aren’t a franchise so they are all overseen by the same people. Either gold coast or Melbourne would be awesome, but if you made a trip to Melbourne there are about a million other gorgeous cafes and restaurants to try at the same time – perfect place for a foodie weekend!
Beeta @ Mon Petit Four says
Oh my goodness! I am so impressed! You’re right; this gelato shop is no ordinary gelato shop. All of these creations look absolutely magnificent…just truly stunning! That hazelnut one with the wafers looks out of this world. And I love that they use the real ingredients of whatever flavor/food they’re trying to mimic, like the apple pie and the cheesecake chunks, rather than use any kind of extract or artificial flavorings. That is truly impressive. I guess the closest shop to me would be Vegas as I live in California, so I will definitely make this a must-stop place next time I’m there! Thanks so much for sharing your lovely review and photos, Claudia! 🙂
Claudia Brick says
Thank you!! Would love to know what the Vegas shop is like if you ever make it there – Gelato Messina is practically an institution in Australia now so very interested as to how it goes in the US! 🙂
Lorraine @Not Quite Nigella says
What a fun class! And their gelato is great and so creative too. Such great quality 🙂
THE HUNGRY MUM says
stop it! These photos! Phwoar, just ice-cream heaven, really…
Claudia Brick says
It totally was, I had an amazing time! 🙂